First of all: (I will insert a funny video here after I retake it... stay tuned).
Now that that´s out of the way...
I arrived last night (Monday) @ 10:30PM and took the taxi provided by my guesthouse. Although Hostal El Patio is no Ritz Carlton, I´m pleased that 1) it´s clean 2) there´s agua caliente (hot water) and 3) it´s only $25 a night! It´s located in a posh neighborhood of Lima by the Pacific Ocean called Miraflores (literally translated "Look at the flowers"). Plus, it has a great lush garden patio.

The day started with a shower @ 7:30AM, followed by breakfast a few blocks away @ the sidewalk Cafe Haiti (one of Miraflores´ oldest cafes with great coffee). Breakfast consisted of a roasted beef sandwich with brown sauce and onions & french fries (Hey - I wanted to try a "Peruvian" breakfast).
After breakfast, I took a taxi to the Monestario de San Francisco in Central Lima.

I got there about 30 minutes after they opened and luckily "beat the crowds" (shout out to Leah and Melody). I am proud to say that I did the Spanish speaking tour (I understood about 50% of what the tourguide said). This turned out to be the better option as the Spanish-speaking tours run more frequently, are smaller, and aren´t packed with annoying teenage tour groups.
Next, I walked a few blcks to the Plaza de Armas and happened to catch the daily Changing of the Guards infront of the President´s House.



After that, I walked down the pedestrian shopping street of Juron de la Union to the Plaza San Martin.

In the middle of the plaza is a statue of General San Martin with an overlooked statue of Madre Patria, the symbollic mother of Peru. Commissioned in Spain under instruction to give the good lady a crown of flames, nobody thought to iron out the double meaning of the word flame (llama) and the hapless craftsmen duly placed a delighful little llama on her head... Baaa haaa... I had a great picture of this, but alas, this stupid computer in the internet cafe erased all my pictures from its hard drive after I had already erased them from my memory card. :( But here´s one I found on the internet:

Next, I walked to the Gran Hotel Bolivar to sample their famous Pisco Sour. It tasted like a Tom Collins... not my cup of tea. (FYI - Pisco is grape brandy. It´s made in wine-producing regins of Peru & Chile and is the most widely consumed spirit in Peru).

Then I took a taxi to the sophistocated neighborhood of San Isidro and had lunch at Segundo Muelle. Lonely Planet says "Ceviche is a lunchtime dish in Peru and it is eaten with full seriousness." I ordered the ceviche de mariscos a los tres ajies (shellfish in three-chili sauce) and it was excellent... very tender. It was nicely paired with Peruvian corn (different from American corn - sweet large white kernels) and sweet yam. The waitstaff was very friendly and helpful and I´d definitely recommend this restaurant.
After lunch I took yet another taxi (it seems to cost me 10 soles ($3.30) no matter where I´m going) to the Mercado del Indios back in Miraflores for some shopping - but I didn´t buy anything... I´ll pick stuff up on my way home - no reason to carry it with me for the next 4 weeks).

Then I walked down Av Jose Larco to the overlook of the Pacific Ocean (still in Miraflores). There is an outdoor mall build into the cliff (LarcoMar).


Next, I caught yet another taxi to have dinner at the upscale La Rosa Nautica, which is a white tablecloth restaurant at the end of the histric Playa Costa Verde pier on the Pacific Ocean below the cliffs of Miraflores.




I sat on the patio outside and enjoyed listening to the waves. They had portable heaters for each table outside (it´s about a constant 60 degrees in Lima), but I had to ask them to turn it off... my ice breaker shirt kept me warm (thanks mom & dad). I enjoyed a glass of sauvignon blanc and grilled seabass with Peruvian potatoes and a cream leek sauce... estaba buenisimo! This meal was a splurge at $30, but I´ll soon be hiking and camping for four days in the Sacred Valley, so I figured I´d better enjoy a nice meal while I can.
Random observations throughout the day:
- I love being in a country where I can (partially) understand the language (unlike my travels to India and Thailand). Speaking the lauguage of the country I visit adds so much more to the experience.
- The pollution (think exhaust from buses & cars), 30 year old taxi cars, and crazy driving in Lima remind me of Delhi, India.
- I´m surprised by how much Spanish I remember from high school... the vocabulary words just come to me naturally somehow. Perhaps it´s like riding a bike - you never really forget. Although, I am rusty with verb tenses.
- This is my first time in the Southern Hemisphere and South America. I think it gives a whole new meaning to "Southern Girl."
So that about does it for today. Tomorrow morning I´m flying to Cuzco in the Andes Mountains. I´ll go from sea level to about 10,800 feet in 45 minutes. Since I´ve heard unplesant stories about altitude sickness, I´m going to start my preventative medicine tonight.
Signing off for now... more to come tomorrow night (with real pictures).

3 comments:
Hey mama, that view of the ocean from that mall on the cliffs looks amazing!
Funny, I found the sam thing in Mexico... I couldn't believe how much I remembered after not being immersed in it for almost 7yrs... like riding a bike!
Love it and love that you're adventure had begun!
Have fun!
Stef,
How beautiful. Wow Wow Wow. Have you found any thrift stores or antique stores. What a wonderful experience you are having. Be safe
Love Aunty Leesa
It looks almost as nice as EPCOT, ha ha. It all looks too exciting for words. Take lots of pictures. Mom is asleep so I had to bring home V Richard's for dinner. We are getting closer to moving in to the new digs.
Have fun, be safe, have a margarita for Mom.
Love
Dad
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